Stug IV In 1/18th Scale

[tmanthegreat]

Sounds great, Picklehaube! Between your Stug IV and Grunt 1’s upcoming Panzer I, never mind Aracula’s numerous models, 1/18th scale armor definitely isn’t a dead subject. Keep us posted and let us know when you’re ready to take orders

[pickelhaube]

OK Guys,

The molds have been made and the castings are coming out great !
I am thinking $125 for the kit plus shipping.
With the kit you get :

Fighting compartment
Gun assembly
Front and rear deck for a Panzer IV
Spare tracks for the transmission and the right side.
Spare bogie wheels and box
All hatches with hinges and handles
Remote MG shield and mg-34
2 x antenna bases and whips.
Rear ventilator
( I will through in a set of tubes for the late late muffler system if wanted )

That's it guys I am ready to take orders.

$125 plus shipping ( aprx $12 )

Matthew

[normandy]

Well as I said got a Panzer IV ready, I'll send you a PM later tonight.

[normandy]

Pickelhaube, PM sent Thursday...check your usps mail tomorrow.

[pickelhaube]

Hey Guys ,

The current orders have been shipped.
Here are a few final details on the finished stug .

If you look close you can see the extra weld beads and lift hooks on the superstructure.

[normandy]

Matthew your Stug IV kit arrived yesterday and it looks great.
I'm going to clear a space on the workbench and get ready to start.

[pickelhaube]

Hey John,

I left the main weapons support lose.
You can tighten it up and adjust with shims to center the tube .
It also will slide from left to right.

On my copy I had to shave the gun slot just a little to get the tube to center.
It was perfect on the proto !
Go figure.

If you tilt up the gun to about 70- 80 degrees you can take out the gun tube and return it as well.

[pickelhaube]

I made a little stand out of PVC pipe to hold up projects so I do not have to handle them .

Here is a shot of my Stug commission in the start of the painting process.

I love how the pre-shading looks on the finished product.

[tmanthegreat]

Your Stug is looking great, Matthew! Nice idea with the PVC pipe stand as well... I use a couple pieces of 2x4, sometimes set on a “lazy Susan” type turning base so I can rotate something when painting. Anyways, My kit should arrive on Monday (if not before) and then it will be time to start... I like the idea of doing some pre-shading, though that’s a technique I don’t often use. I think I may attempt another late-war hard edge camouflage scheme as well, assuming I find a historically accurate pattern I like... This will be fun

[pickelhaube]

Thanks Tman.
I use the pre-shading on armor and aircraft.

While I am at it I will do a step by step in the painting process.
This can be used on any armor subject.

I started by getting a scale model of the StuG IV in 1/35 scale.
This gives me something to measure when I am enlarging the parts.
Usually most models have a scale rendition of a paint scheme.
I used the Dragon model and I really liked the color scheme so I used it.

1. I enlarged the prints to 1/18 scale. The top view worked but the sides did not so I had to use a lot of artist license .

2. Pre shaded



3. Laying the template out after cutting the yellow out I air brushed on the yellow



4. Using the yellow cut outs I covered the yellow and air brushed on the red brouwn.




5. I coverd the yellow and brown then sprayed on the green. A little touch up is needed but I think it turned out well.







Next I need to aply the crosses then the weathering process.

[normandy]

That Stug is looking great Matthew.

[pickelhaube]

Thanks Normandy.

Here are pics of spare tracks and their main track counterparts.
Track on top is painted black before the weathering treatment.
The 2 on the bottom have been treated.



Treated spare.



Track options rusty or dirty.

[tmanthegreat]

Great job on the Stug, Picklehaube!

Have you ever tried using silly putty or panzer putty (basically the same thing) as a masking agent for doing the German hard edge camouflage? I experimented with it when I built Aracula’s 1/18 scale Jagdpanzer IV and was very happy with the end results. Just thought I’d ask

BTW, I received you kit in the mail on Friday in great shape. Thanks for making it and I look forward to building

[pickelhaube]

I used silly putty on this camo job but I was looking for a soft edge.

[tmanthegreat]

I used silly putty on this camo job but I was looking for a soft edge.

Awesome! It still looks good. When I first tried the silly putty masking technique on my 1/18 Jagdpanzer model a few months ago, I was readily impressed with how well the technique worked!

[pickelhaube]

Hey Guys ,

I am finished with the full build and I think it came out great !

I painted with Tamiya paints and washed it with an AK wash.
I used pastels on all tracks painted black with a touch of pencil graphite to bring out the look of metal.
I used a dapple method on the muffler using rust , dark brown and dark gray paints in that order .
Coming out with a gray look and rusty under tones .
I used stencils to make the crosses.

[tmanthegreat]

Picklehaube, your Stug IV is a work of art! And it’s a good reference as well...I did some more research and your model definitely works as a mid-production Stug IV, meaning one can keep the standard exhaust muffler. I hope mine will come out looking as good as yours

[normandy]

Another master piece Matthew. I've used Tamiya paints on many
of my armor projects and I get good results with them.
I'll have to look into AK washes.

[pickelhaube]

Thanks guys

I appreciate the kind remarks.

[pickelhaube]

Another note on my construction .

Right or wrong, on all of my vision blocks Allied and Axis ( WWII ) I first paint the blocks with a silver chrome then come back with a transparent green.
Usually applied with a tooth pick .

At the rear on the Notek Convoy light.
I used a chromed colored paint then used a transparent red .
Of course allowing the chrome paint to thoroughly dry.

I use this method on aircraft nav lights.

If you notice on the remote MG .
The actual MG is closer to the right side.
This is done to accept the mag ( I did not have one )
This is correct because the mg sits on a rail that holds it to the right side to allow for mag change out.
I did not make the rail , thinking it can not be seen.