1/18 Sdkfz 222 Build
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Again thanks guys.
I think that I almost have the front end done. I need to copy the lamp and the tow hook. As well as the notex light and curb feelers.
I tried to work on the exaust . I tried a candel and heat gun . Both dismal failers. So I will have to cut and glue them to get what I want.
Also I thought about some under vehical running gear. Axel drive shafts transfer case , that kind of thing. But I think that I may pass on that. I will make sure that I have a stout axel and let it go. The only way is to turn the car upside down to see it.
The suspention will be done. You will see that.
Any more opinions on the running gear ?
I think that I almost have the front end done. I need to copy the lamp and the tow hook. As well as the notex light and curb feelers.
I tried to work on the exaust . I tried a candel and heat gun . Both dismal failers. So I will have to cut and glue them to get what I want.
Also I thought about some under vehical running gear. Axel drive shafts transfer case , that kind of thing. But I think that I may pass on that. I will make sure that I have a stout axel and let it go. The only way is to turn the car upside down to see it.
The suspention will be done. You will see that.
Any more opinions on the running gear ?
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BTW
There has been several guys who have prepaid.
Cost is $225-$250. I will know for sure when I start casting.
I am accepting pre pays and I ham happy to take lay aways.
Let me know.
There has been several guys who have prepaid.
Cost is $225-$250. I will know for sure when I start casting.
I am accepting pre pays and I ham happy to take lay aways.
Let me know.
Last edited by pickelhaube on Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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222
Thanks for the commitment .
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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Ok guys here you go. This is over 3 weeks of work
Next I have to break it all down so I can mount the seats and do some minor internal work.
I probably will not build it up because once I have it torn apart I will start casting the moulds.
I still have 2 more things to do on the exterior. The antenna stub and the brake lines on the bottom frame. Other than that the exterior is DONE !!!!!!
I am still not sure on cost $225- $250. A lot of money but this had been a lot of work. It has taken me over 3 weeks. But it has always been something that I have wanted.
The unfilled lines on the side edge of the body is were the body will seperate.
It looks pretty close
Next I have to break it all down so I can mount the seats and do some minor internal work.
I probably will not build it up because once I have it torn apart I will start casting the moulds.
I still have 2 more things to do on the exterior. The antenna stub and the brake lines on the bottom frame. Other than that the exterior is DONE !!!!!!
I am still not sure on cost $225- $250. A lot of money but this had been a lot of work. It has taken me over 3 weeks. But it has always been something that I have wanted.
The unfilled lines on the side edge of the body is were the body will seperate.
It looks pretty close
Last edited by pickelhaube on Fri Oct 23, 2009 4:14 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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That is incredable workmanship. Which got me to thinking. How much difference is there between your resin molds and the molds plastic manufacturers such as 21st Century, BBI and FOV use? Have you considered getting in touch with some manufacturer about them producing your stuff? It is every bit as good as the stuff on store shelves currently.
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Thanks guys I think this may be my best yet it certaintly took me long enough.grockwood wrote:That is incredable workmanship. Which got me to thinking. How much difference is there between your resin molds and the molds plastic manufacturers such as 21st Century, BBI and FOV use? Have you considered getting in touch with some manufacturer about them producing your stuff? It is every bit as good as the stuff on store shelves currently.
Hey Grockwood.
I talked to a company who made moulds and did ejection moulding.
To put things in perspective . They told me that if I wanted to make a 8" ruler it would cost me $5,000 .
So I would guess for this thing to be made that way would cost about $50,000 to $75,000.
So I need to stick to resin.
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Pickel, that's just outstanding!!!!!!!
Grockwood, there is a very big difference. RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber molds are used for limited runs. Resin is pored into the mold and then it sets.
Mas production molds are made of metal and plastic (at a high temp.) is injected into the mold.
RTV while expensive is still affordable for model makers, artist, ect...
Injection molds can cost many, many thousands of dollars. If Pickelhaube could financial backing, We'd all have the 1:18th stuff we want.
Grockwood, there is a very big difference. RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber molds are used for limited runs. Resin is pored into the mold and then it sets.
Mas production molds are made of metal and plastic (at a high temp.) is injected into the mold.
RTV while expensive is still affordable for model makers, artist, ect...
Injection molds can cost many, many thousands of dollars. If Pickelhaube could financial backing, We'd all have the 1:18th stuff we want.
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I have been trying to figure out the hinges for the top basket all day and have not come up with anything.
I got some r/c hinges from Dubro and semi put them on and they do not work.
They will work fine if I put them OUTSIDE THE TURRET. That does not work.
So I think what I am going to do is make some little clips that will hold the basket open. It will not open or close but just stay poised in the open positon.
I put the hinges in there , and there is about 1/8th of an inch gap between the basket and the top of the turret . This looks like pooh pooh.
You guys who are buying this any thoughts ?
I have wasted a whole day trying to get this solved with nothing to show except a butcherd basket frame.
190,
I am building the 222 as an unbuilt kit. But I will be offering some as fully built up a little later on.
I got some r/c hinges from Dubro and semi put them on and they do not work.
They will work fine if I put them OUTSIDE THE TURRET. That does not work.
So I think what I am going to do is make some little clips that will hold the basket open. It will not open or close but just stay poised in the open positon.
I put the hinges in there , and there is about 1/8th of an inch gap between the basket and the top of the turret . This looks like pooh pooh.
You guys who are buying this any thoughts ?
I have wasted a whole day trying to get this solved with nothing to show except a butcherd basket frame.
190,
I am building the 222 as an unbuilt kit. But I will be offering some as fully built up a little later on.
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