Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
I have asked Aferguson if he would make this post a sticky so it will always be there so you guys can see it.
I will be posting on here when I get to building the model.
Feel free to add your building tips as well.
First of all wash all parts with soap and water to clean the parts from mold release.
You can only use super glue or CA glue.
It is best to use a primer before you paint.
I had an issue on the bottom of all the fuselages of being 1/8th of an inch off.
I have quickly sanded , smoothed and filled all of the fuselages and have primed them.
The fix is not perfect but it is something you can work with.
I will be posting on here when I get to building the model.
Feel free to add your building tips as well.
First of all wash all parts with soap and water to clean the parts from mold release.
You can only use super glue or CA glue.
It is best to use a primer before you paint.
I had an issue on the bottom of all the fuselages of being 1/8th of an inch off.
I have quickly sanded , smoothed and filled all of the fuselages and have primed them.
The fix is not perfect but it is something you can work with.
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- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9656
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
1. The first thing is test fit the floors one at a time starting with the cockpit floor.
Check it take it out then go back to the next .
There are 3 floors cockpit radio room and crew cab.
When I made the proto, they fit fine but I had to make flow vents and the molds had a tendency to squeeze the side of the fuselage halves thinner . So I had to shave the inside of the molds .
2. Use the 1 inch screws provided to hold the rear boom socket together when trying on the rear boom. Other wise the fuse will probably split back there.
3. I used screws to hold everything together as I worked on construction . It made it easier to handle everything.
Check it take it out then go back to the next .
There are 3 floors cockpit radio room and crew cab.
When I made the proto, they fit fine but I had to make flow vents and the molds had a tendency to squeeze the side of the fuselage halves thinner . So I had to shave the inside of the molds .
2. Use the 1 inch screws provided to hold the rear boom socket together when trying on the rear boom. Other wise the fuse will probably split back there.
3. I used screws to hold everything together as I worked on construction . It made it easier to handle everything.
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/du ... sed&pos=20
This is the paint that I use if the surface has tiny pin holes.
1 Spray once and wait about 40-60 seconds
2 Spray again and run your finger over the area and fill the holes with wet paint
3. Spray a third time and wait at least 2 hours and sand smooth.
Repeat if necesary
This is the paint that I use if the surface has tiny pin holes.
1 Spray once and wait about 40-60 seconds
2 Spray again and run your finger over the area and fill the holes with wet paint
3. Spray a third time and wait at least 2 hours and sand smooth.
Repeat if necesary
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- Officer - Brigadier General
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- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
Well I finally started one of the full builds and nothing seems to fit .
I need to go through this thing and I will make notes of what to do to make things fit.
All of the fuselages I have put together and matched the very nose my have to be spaced to match the canopy.
Pics to fallow.
I need to go through this thing and I will make notes of what to do to make things fit.
All of the fuselages I have put together and matched the very nose my have to be spaced to match the canopy.
Pics to fallow.
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- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9656
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
All righty then.
I have been spending some serious time on making templates for the cockpit painting areas and I am almost done.
2 1/2 half days on the side panels alone.
I will try and get some pics of the paint master cockpit up ASAPBut I want to get some conctuction pics up first.
Step 1.
Cockpit frame
After the first 3 pours the canopy rail tore out of the mold so I had to cast them in 2 pieces.
sand all of the pieces smooth and clamp the rail into the frame.
Snip this part off
Snip off the locator tabs
2. Cockpit floor
You are going to have to shave these areas in red.
Both sides
3. Fusalage
On the first build I had to spread the nose about 3/16 of an inch or so to accept the canopy
After the shimming I had to reshape the nose just slighty.
After the shimming I had to reshape the nose just slighty.
I have been spending some serious time on making templates for the cockpit painting areas and I am almost done.
2 1/2 half days on the side panels alone.
I will try and get some pics of the paint master cockpit up ASAPBut I want to get some conctuction pics up first.
Step 1.
Cockpit frame
After the first 3 pours the canopy rail tore out of the mold so I had to cast them in 2 pieces.
sand all of the pieces smooth and clamp the rail into the frame.
Snip this part off
Snip off the locator tabs
2. Cockpit floor
You are going to have to shave these areas in red.
Both sides
3. Fusalage
On the first build I had to spread the nose about 3/16 of an inch or so to accept the canopy
After the shimming I had to reshape the nose just slighty.
After the shimming I had to reshape the nose just slighty.
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- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9656
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
I am doing my best to get the first 2 out but there are road bumps every ware.
I have been trying to button them up for final painting but EVERYTHING ELSE NEED TO BE BUILT AND PAINTED BEFOR THAT HAPPENS .
1. The main floor of the cockpit needs to be nipped and tucked to fit the front of the fuse. Go slow doing this.
The cockpit must be fully painted and built except the WSO gizmo in the very front and the 2 parts of the starboard side that goes against the wall.
These can be added later.
You must fit the nose gear and door prior to install.
2. The crew cab needs to be finished dry fit and the seat can be added through the top just before seal the fuse halves.
Do the floor first sliding it forward as far as it will go, Once fitted take it out .
Then fit the rear wall make sure it fits tight up against the ceiling rails.
Once done take it out fit the floor then fit the back wall.
Once floor is fitted fit the front wall on top of the floor.
Making sure your interior is painted at this time secure the windows and crew doors.
3. Dry fit the main gear and drill holes so they can be added.
4.Dry fit the wing lets. There will be some nipping and tuck to get these to fit tight.
The easiest way to fit the wings the same is place the fuse halves on a flat surface holding the wing in tight .
Then use a square against the belly of the fuse measure from the blade of the square to the drop down missile stub.
Make sure both sides measure the same then glue.
5. Before you final fit the wings the rocket rails should be fitted.
They probably should be fixed onto the wings and painted before final assembly .
Because you will have to deal with a 48 inch long fuse and taping and painting will be a challange.
6. Attach the main rotor hub .
I fitted everything together and once done I super glued the nut on the bottom of the mounts block.
In hindsight I should have molded an all thread in it and casted a nut in the rotor cap so that could be screwed on.
7. Once you think that you have everything squared away try and screw the fuse halves together. If you can leave the screws in and putty over.
Try to fit the tail boom may split the halves.
Once done and you think you are good to go, flow super thin glue to cement the halves together .
Of course being careful.
8. Glue the boom halves together putty sand and finish prep before paint.
After pouring the boom the stabilizer ( stabs) holes were off.
The boom should be epoxied together to the fuse using 1/2 hour epoxy.
Eye ball down the fuse to align the boom .Then allow to set rock hard .
Drill holes out for stabs .
Slide a dowl in the holes about 8-10 inches long and check alignment that way top and sides.
I tried this with the boom unglued from fuse and it was off , so I had to redo it .
I have been trying to button them up for final painting but EVERYTHING ELSE NEED TO BE BUILT AND PAINTED BEFOR THAT HAPPENS .
1. The main floor of the cockpit needs to be nipped and tucked to fit the front of the fuse. Go slow doing this.
The cockpit must be fully painted and built except the WSO gizmo in the very front and the 2 parts of the starboard side that goes against the wall.
These can be added later.
You must fit the nose gear and door prior to install.
2. The crew cab needs to be finished dry fit and the seat can be added through the top just before seal the fuse halves.
Do the floor first sliding it forward as far as it will go, Once fitted take it out .
Then fit the rear wall make sure it fits tight up against the ceiling rails.
Once done take it out fit the floor then fit the back wall.
Once floor is fitted fit the front wall on top of the floor.
Making sure your interior is painted at this time secure the windows and crew doors.
3. Dry fit the main gear and drill holes so they can be added.
4.Dry fit the wing lets. There will be some nipping and tuck to get these to fit tight.
The easiest way to fit the wings the same is place the fuse halves on a flat surface holding the wing in tight .
Then use a square against the belly of the fuse measure from the blade of the square to the drop down missile stub.
Make sure both sides measure the same then glue.
5. Before you final fit the wings the rocket rails should be fitted.
They probably should be fixed onto the wings and painted before final assembly .
Because you will have to deal with a 48 inch long fuse and taping and painting will be a challange.
6. Attach the main rotor hub .
I fitted everything together and once done I super glued the nut on the bottom of the mounts block.
In hindsight I should have molded an all thread in it and casted a nut in the rotor cap so that could be screwed on.
7. Once you think that you have everything squared away try and screw the fuse halves together. If you can leave the screws in and putty over.
Try to fit the tail boom may split the halves.
Once done and you think you are good to go, flow super thin glue to cement the halves together .
Of course being careful.
8. Glue the boom halves together putty sand and finish prep before paint.
After pouring the boom the stabilizer ( stabs) holes were off.
The boom should be epoxied together to the fuse using 1/2 hour epoxy.
Eye ball down the fuse to align the boom .Then allow to set rock hard .
Drill holes out for stabs .
Slide a dowl in the holes about 8-10 inches long and check alignment that way top and sides.
I tried this with the boom unglued from fuse and it was off , so I had to redo it .
-
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9656
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
Hey Guys ,
I have worked on the first 2 HINDS over the holidays
Every time I think I am ready to seal up the main fuse I realize I need to do one more thing before I do .
That was about 5 things ago.
Presently I am working on the cargo doors.
I am dealing with the hinges, mountings and door linkages.
Both of these builds , the guys want the turtle decks fixed so I have to mount the windows before I seal them up.
That means when I start paint I will have to mask them off .
When mounting the crew doors I noticed that there was a slight gap between the top and middle of the doors.
I glued a strip of .75 X 3 MM inside of the fuse on the top of widow rail( fuselage) and on the bottom of the top door closing off the middle gap.
That way when I start the painting process paint will not spray into the cargo compartment.
On the 3rd full build , I will start picture taking and will do my best on keeping track of time during the build d.
I am trying to build 2 at a time but that is not going smoothly.
After these 2 builds I will build on at a time .
Hopefully things will go smoother.
I have worked on the first 2 HINDS over the holidays
Every time I think I am ready to seal up the main fuse I realize I need to do one more thing before I do .
That was about 5 things ago.
Presently I am working on the cargo doors.
I am dealing with the hinges, mountings and door linkages.
Both of these builds , the guys want the turtle decks fixed so I have to mount the windows before I seal them up.
That means when I start paint I will have to mask them off .
When mounting the crew doors I noticed that there was a slight gap between the top and middle of the doors.
I glued a strip of .75 X 3 MM inside of the fuse on the top of widow rail( fuselage) and on the bottom of the top door closing off the middle gap.
That way when I start the painting process paint will not spray into the cargo compartment.
On the 3rd full build , I will start picture taking and will do my best on keeping track of time during the build d.
I am trying to build 2 at a time but that is not going smoothly.
After these 2 builds I will build on at a time .
Hopefully things will go smoother.
-
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9656
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
Re: Helpful Hints On Building Your Hind
Hey Guys,
You guys who have the kits take off the rubber bands holding the main rotor blades together.
The constant pressure from the bands WILL warped the trailing edges.
It is a quick fix to put them back strait but will take a little time to do unless you put them out in the sunshine .
Get a cloth pin and clamp a strait edge to bring them back to strait
You guys who have the kits take off the rubber bands holding the main rotor blades together.
The constant pressure from the bands WILL warped the trailing edges.
It is a quick fix to put them back strait but will take a little time to do unless you put them out in the sunshine .
Get a cloth pin and clamp a strait edge to bring them back to strait