1/18 CUSTOM BF 109 COMPLETED!!!!! 5-9-2010
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SkyWorksToys
- Sergeant
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:12 pm
Here is the final product and yes it has a sand filter thanks to Jack at Skyworks. The filter really completes this paint scheme and the detail is amazing. When nearing the end of the project I realized that the two customs that I have done are from the MTO, which was not intentional. Take a look at the radio antenna wire made from .008 stainless steel wire, I tried something new and wanted to see what kind of response it gets. Anyway here it is.......
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pickelhaube
- Officer - Brigadier General
- Posts: 9648
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:52 am
- Location: New Orleans
On page one I linked the Inkscape program. This is a free download of a vector graphic program. What that means is once you create the design you can change the size without causing any distortion on the edges. Works like AutoCad in that respect. Anyway I laid out my designs on a 8 1/2 x 11 sheet and was able to put extra graphics on the sheet in case I screwed up any. Here is what the decal sheet looked like. I had to shade areas to define the white parts of the decals so I would know where to cut. this is important because most printers do not print white and I used white waterslide decal paper.flyboy_fx wrote:DUDE!
how did you make the decals?
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flpickupman
- Officer - Lt. Colonel
- Posts: 1230
- Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 7:58 pm
- Location: South Florida
Thanks for the comments everyone, I am very happy with the way this one turned out and that I was able to find a sand filter (Thanks Jack)snake wrote:Your Me109 turned out great Buckyroo.
Great job on the paint,and the decals.
Amazing that you can make your own decals these days.
Any future repaints on the horizon?
Snake..
I did buy some extra Petie P-51s from the Monkey, but P-51s are all over the place... I wish I had extra P-47s and FW190s or a set of rear horizontal stabilizers for my extra Zero. Also, after seeing first hand how I improved on the second, I was thinking about striping the Custom Spitfire and laying on the correct shade of RAF blue/grey under the dark OD.
But, I think my next project will be some more wall hanger brackets. I just got enough material to make 28 more.
FB more on decals comming soon.
FB here is the best summary I can come up with.
Bucky’s custom scheme and decal method
1. Determine the next victim
2. Spend way too much time searching the net for the scheme that catches my eye and (for me) one that will be easy to replicate with rattle cans and painter’s masking tape. I also have a few books in my reference library. Here are a couple sites…
http://www.markstyling.com/wwll_s_view_header.htm
http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/f
I will usually take some artistic license with incorporating different details that I like even if it is not 100% historically correct.
3. I use Inkscape (a free downloaded vector graphic program) http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape even lets you copy PDFs onto the sheet and adjust the size of those images too.
4. Spend way too much time with trial and error method of creating the design for the decals on Inkscape, because I still have not read the instructions for the program and I do not have a graphics designer’s touch.
5. I print the decals on regular paper to trial fit for size, etc.
6. I use an inkjet printer, so I find both clear and white waterslide decal sheets for inkjets from a hobby store or from EBay. Be careful because they have sheets for laser printers too.
7. When the designs are complete I will print them on the waterslide sheets on the best photo settings for use with photo quality paper because the decal sheets have a similar finish as photo paper.
8. let the sheets have plenty of time to dry before handling.
9. I then use Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear High Gloss spray and give the sheets 2 to 3 coats making sure that there is a full and consistent coverage.
10. I then carefully cut the decals to shape. Making decals with white sheets will require that you trim off all material that is not the desired decal because any material beyond the edges will be white.
11. When soaking the decals only l let them soak for the shortest time required to make the decal separate from the backing paper. Letting them soak too long will let the edges rise and the adhesive becomes less effective on these edges.
12. I apply the decals on a dry surface because I find they adhere better that way. Then I apply Micro-Sol to panel lines or any area that I need the decal to be more pliable.
13. After the decals are all on and canopy is protected I coat the entire plane with Testors All Purpose Dullcote flat clear lacquer. This takes the shine off of the decals and any paint that may have a glossy finish.
Hope this helps anyone wishing to make some decals.
Bucky’s custom scheme and decal method
1. Determine the next victim
2. Spend way too much time searching the net for the scheme that catches my eye and (for me) one that will be easy to replicate with rattle cans and painter’s masking tape. I also have a few books in my reference library. Here are a couple sites…
http://www.markstyling.com/wwll_s_view_header.htm
http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/f
I will usually take some artistic license with incorporating different details that I like even if it is not 100% historically correct.
3. I use Inkscape (a free downloaded vector graphic program) http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape even lets you copy PDFs onto the sheet and adjust the size of those images too.
4. Spend way too much time with trial and error method of creating the design for the decals on Inkscape, because I still have not read the instructions for the program and I do not have a graphics designer’s touch.
5. I print the decals on regular paper to trial fit for size, etc.
6. I use an inkjet printer, so I find both clear and white waterslide decal sheets for inkjets from a hobby store or from EBay. Be careful because they have sheets for laser printers too.
7. When the designs are complete I will print them on the waterslide sheets on the best photo settings for use with photo quality paper because the decal sheets have a similar finish as photo paper.
8. let the sheets have plenty of time to dry before handling.
9. I then use Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear High Gloss spray and give the sheets 2 to 3 coats making sure that there is a full and consistent coverage.
10. I then carefully cut the decals to shape. Making decals with white sheets will require that you trim off all material that is not the desired decal because any material beyond the edges will be white.
11. When soaking the decals only l let them soak for the shortest time required to make the decal separate from the backing paper. Letting them soak too long will let the edges rise and the adhesive becomes less effective on these edges.
12. I apply the decals on a dry surface because I find they adhere better that way. Then I apply Micro-Sol to panel lines or any area that I need the decal to be more pliable.
13. After the decals are all on and canopy is protected I coat the entire plane with Testors All Purpose Dullcote flat clear lacquer. This takes the shine off of the decals and any paint that may have a glossy finish.
Hope this helps anyone wishing to make some decals.
